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it's been a journey of more than 8,000 miles from my hometown of Los Angeles but the last I've arrived in the Southeast Asian nation of Cambodia this is a country of extremes from a very controlled chaos of its bustling capital city Phnom Penh to rural villages whose inhabitants live in conditions all but unchanged in hundreds of years from the incomparable temples of the once mighty Khmer Empire to the grim reminders of war and genocide that in the 1970s killed millions of Cambodia citizens before setting out in my Subaru WRX STI to explore the sites and secrets of this ancient and often challenging landscape I decide to stack the cards in my favour by having my car and myself blessed by a group of local Buddhist monks it's an impressive production that somehow I just can't picture Kwai Chang Caine interrupting his mantras to take a cell phone rules of the road not so much driving in C